How to Surf (for the first time)

Don’t have time to read a guide? Just watch this video, and go with someone who is experienced

Mindset

Have fun! Don’t focus preconceived notions, just enjoy a day in the water

“The best surfer is the one having the most fun” – Unknown

You will get tired. Hydrate and take breaks!

There is risk; this is an extreme sport, so be responsible and keep an eye out to stay safe!

What to Bring

Hydration; gatorade or equivalent is best, but water is also fine

Snacks; always good! Energy bars, fruits, and protein powder can speed up recovery

Sunscreen; ideally one that is “sport” rated and good for water use.

Yes, even if it’s foggy (it can burn off quick!)

A towel to dry off and change into your wetsuit

Warm layers if the weather is cool, windy, or wet

(optional) slides or flip flops if you want to avoid walking barefoot

What to Rent

Wetsuit; a 4/3 mm full suit is typical for Northern California

Board; a large one that is suitable for beginners

(optional) Booties to keep your feet warm and help with rocky surfaces

Safety

Only go if you can swim without a floatation device and are comfortable in small waves

Go to a beginner friendly beach when there isn’t large swell

(you can check beforehand on surfline; up to 4 ft is okay for beginners)

Be aware of your surroundings; especially other surfers and incoming waves

Face the ocean (not land) most of the time, except when catching and riding a wave

Make a cage with your hands when you wipe out (forearms over your head)

Go with a friend who can keep an eye out for you

Get back on the beach and rest if you get injured or don’t feel well

On-Land Practice (optional)

  • Get a feel of where to position your body on your board for paddling
  • Practice pop-ups
    • Chicken wings, peel the banana
    • Slow is smooth, smooth is fast

Getting in the Water

  • Put on your leash; it goes on your back foot by your ankle (untwist it first!)
  • Point the nose (front) of your board into the waves, pointing it up to go over waves
    • Keep your board facing the waves; if it is sideways the board may hit you
  • Never let the board come between you and wave, since then waves may throw the board into you. Instead keep it underneath, next to, or behind you. 
  • Get comfortable turning your board in the water; practice this between sets (big waves)
    • Push down on the tail (back) of your board, then turn it around
    • If you are sitting on your board, shift your weight back and then pushing against the water
  • Practice jumping onto your board in the water and balancing on your belly
  • (optional) paddle around out the back if it’s a mellow day
  • Practice paddling; proper technique can make you go faster for longer
    • Keep your elbows high when your hand enters the water (think of “reaching over a barrel”)
    • Practice pausing with your hand just below the surface of the water for a few seconds before taking each stroke. Try to get a feel for how to grab the water most efficiently by experimenting with how you shape your hand and how you pull it through.

Catching a Wave

  • Predict what waves will be good; look for shape, color, and frequency
  • As a beginner, focus on catching waves that have already broken
  • Plan early and commit for what waves you want to catch; look for big foamy ones
  • Avoid grabbing the rails (sides of the board); keep your hands flat on top
  • When you go for a wave:
    • Paddle 5-7 strong strokes straight into the beach
    • Make sure you are well centered on your board
    • You should feel the power of the wave now (“going down the slide”)
  • Tip: to get off a wave, shift your weight towards the tail (back) of the board
  • Practice shifting your weight around and see how the board responds
    • Trimming (small) turns can be performed by slightly shifting weight left / right
    • Carving (big) turns require shifting weight back and to one side. Make sure to shift back forwards to regain speed
  • (optional) practice trimming and carving turns

Standing Up

  • First, practice catching a wave prone: ride at least one wave in to the beach before thinking about standing up
  • Get someone to instruct you how to do a pop-up! You can practice this on land
    • Know whether you will ride regular (left foot forward) or goofy (right foot forward)
  • If you fall on a wave, try to:
    • 1) do it backwards, i.e., landing behind your board
    • 2) land on your butt
  • Once you are able to ride a wave standing up all the way into land, try to catch a wave before it breaks
  • Don’t feel discouraged if you don’t stand up the first time (or even the first few sessions)

Progression milestones 😀

  1. Catch a whitewater wave and ride it all the way into land while laying on stomach
  2. Catch a whitewater wave and get feet on the board
  3. Catch a whitewater wave, get feet on the board, and surf it all the way into land
  4. Catch an unbroken wave
  5. Catch an unbroken wave, get feet on the board before it turns into whitewater, and stay on as it breaks
  6. Catch an unbroken wave, remain laying on your stomach, and angle the board sideways in the direction that the wave is peeling to stay in the unbroken part of the wave
  7. Catch an unbroken wave, get your feet on the board, and turn the board in the direction of the unbroken part of the wave (i.e., bottom turn)

Note: level of difficulty will depend on conditions of the day and board used (larger board => easier to catch, easier to stay floating, harder to turn)

  • Steps 1 through 5 will be easier on a larger board, steps 6 and 7 will be easier on a smaller board
  • For easiest possible conditions to learn in, you want small waves (2-3 ft) and light wind (<5kt). Mid-tide tends to be best at most surf spots inc. (Linda Mar / Pacifica if you’re located near the SF Bay Area)

Further Reading

How to Learn Surfing in One day (linked in intro) [3 minutes]

Surfing Explained series by Surf Simply [series of 3-10 minute videos]

How to Catch Unbroken Waves by Surf Simply [9 minutes]

Surfing Paddling Technique by Rob Case [8 minutes]

Linda Mar

(note: the “free” section now has enforced time limits of 2 hours)

More notes:

  • Renting: at Nor Cal (right by th beach) or Sonlight (a block away)
  • There’s plenty of free street parking on streets farther away, such as by Sonlight surf shop about a block away from the north side of the beach
  • Pacifica parking passes are about $75 annually –  a good investment if you plan to go more than half a dozen times per year! https://apm.activecommunities.com/pacifica/Home

Special thanks to my friend Øystein for help writing this up!

Last Updated Sep 16, 2023

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